“Although some people have the impression that I 3-D print whole collections, I would estimate that 80 percent of everything we make is by hand,” Iris van Herpen said . Van Herpen started her line 10 years ago with almost completely handmade clothing—she didn’t even own a sewing machine!—but was also the first to experiment with 3-D printing on the major runways. Her Fall ’17 Couture collection, shown in Paris on Monday, featured some of her most stunning 3-D-printed creations yet, including a few looks that toed the line between fashion and sculpture. Look 18, the Aeriform dress, was signature Van Herpen in its combination of high-tech innovation and incredible lightness—but you’ll be surprised to learn that it actually wasn’t 3-D printed. Here, she tells us the story behind the piece and what went into making it.